Chasing Silence and Sandstone: Hiking the Needles District at Canyonlands National Park

I’ve always been drawn to the trails that lead you to a place of solitude. The ones that require a bit of dust, a few miles of trail under your boots and even a dirt road to find. Exploring park four of our Mighty Five in Five Day journey, Canyonlands quickly became one of those places that reminds me why I take the long way to find adventure away from the pavement.

A unique feature of Canyonlands National Park, is that the park is sectioned out into three distinct districts. For this trip we decided to focus our attention on the Needles District. Unlike the more accessible viewpoints found in the parks’ Island in the Sky district, the Needles district feels like a secret you have to earn.

To get there, you trade the highway for a winding path through the rugged beauty of Bears Ears and Indian Creek, where the only traffic we encountered was grazing cows lounging near signs that warned you of their presence.

Not in a rush to do more than enjoy every bit of the park and the surrounding area that we could, we took the slow route and pulled over for a brief stop at Newspaper Rock to admire the lines of petroglyphs that have decorated the sandstone for approximately 2,000 years, etched in the rock by the Archaic, Basketmaker, Fremont and Pueblo cultures from B.C. time to A.D. 1300. While interpreting the petroglyphs, the Ute and Navajo people, as well as European Americans made their contributions to this sandstone slab of “newspaper. ”

Once beyond Bears Ear’s National Monument and the adjoining section of Indian Creek, and after making our traditional stop at the park visitor center, our mission for the day was to enjoy a full day of hiking and exploring Elephant Hill.

The Sprint for Solitude Hiking the Needles District

The drive to the Elephant Hill trailhead itself set the tone for the days’ upcoming hike; a narrow, bumpy dirt road that felt like a transition into a timeless rural landscape. With one trail option leading straight into the rocky terrain for permitted off-road vehicles, our trail veered a different direction, yet still included an immediate incline to hike up and into the secluded wilderness.

Starting the ascent up a steep stone staircase combined with rock scrambling, gave my lungs the perfect awaking after the drive. But as soon as we topped those stairs and hit the sandstone flats, the scale of the park hit us. When it comes to hiking the Needles District at Canyonlands National Park, the views don't wait for the summits; they start immediately and refuse to let up.

With a half mile of trail behind us, we soon realized we weren't the only ones eager to explore. Just as we reached a long straightaway, we encountered a massive school field trip group, and while I love seeing people enjoying the outdoors, I also love the profound silence that comes along with hiking. With the large group of eager teenagers threatening the sense of serenity, what followed was perhaps the fastest mile-and-a-half rock scrambling hike we’ve ever clocked. We moved at a swift pace, with only quick pauses for water or photos, determined to put enough distance between us and the crowd to reclaim the quiet. It was a workout, but comical when we’d reach other hikers and backpackers admitting to doing the same thing. Even while stopping to laugh with other breathless hikers, it was impossible not to be in complete awe of the small slot canyons and rock corridors we were traversing through and that continued to expand around us.

Into the Heart of Chesler Park

Unlike our scramble at Arches the day before, the trail winding up Elephant Hill felt more intuitive, more immersive and even more rewarding. The path led us through a labyrinth of rock spires and hoodoos until we finally reached the rocky climb to Chesler Park Viewpoint.

Though feeling a touch of apprehension looking up the steep climb, with hesitation that it would be a repeat of the day before, we quickly discovered that this was a welcoming trail and the climb provided easy step placement and ease for ascending.

With stunning views from every elevation of the climb to the viewpoint, once at the top, we were riding that specific kind of high that only comes from a "thrill of the hike" type of adrenaline surge. The perfect weather, the expansive views, the rush of desire to see even more, it all led us to push forward to cover even more ground further into the Chesler Park area. Past the CP1 campsite, finding a quiet ledge of sandstone to claim as our own for a bit, we paused for a perfect scenic lunch. We sat there, legs stretching toward the needles dispersed below and stretched out in front of us, overlooking a desert that seemed to stretch on forever. It these type of locations and landscapes that create a unique moment. Wanting to talk amongst ourselves, sharing the incredible experience, pointing out every unique rock formation and bird call in the distance, and yet simultaneously wanting to sit in absolute silence and let my mind simple become completely immersed into the moment, feeling every sensation at once. Every breezing cooling off the sweat on my skin, every bird chirp or rustle of leaves from nearby trees, every faint aroma of the plants around us, all feeling amplified in a moment of pure awe as I think, damn I am so grateful to be able to be here right now.

Elephant Hill to Chesler Park

Total Distance: 8.2 miles roundtrip

Total Time: 4 hours, 53 mins

Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous (A combination of well maintained trail along thick sand, loose rock, and slick rock with occasional rock scrambling along narrow and steep areas. Offline navigation paired with following rock cairns along the trail as guides through indistinct trail areas.)

We eventually made it as far as the CP3 campsite. This flat, grassy area was nestled against a ridge of isolated sandstone spires and rock formations, felt like the ultimate backcountry sanctuary, and one that we felt confidant we could accomplish again. We spent some time "scouting" campsites, already mentally packing our bags for a future backpacking trip to this exact spot, deciding then and there; someday we will cook dinner and wake up to this view.

Canyonlands didn't just give us this hike; it gave us a reminder that the extra effort to get to the quiet part of the park is always, always worth it.

The Long Way Back

By the time we turned around, we had covered a significant amount of ground. The return trip offered a different perspective; with the speed-hiking no longer necessary, we noticed things we had missed in our earlier rush, like subtle handprint petroglyphs pressed into the rock along the trail.

By mile seven, I was starting to feel the desert heat and the day’s exertion. The sun’s heat radiating off the rocks, though manageable was wearing me down. My joints began feeling the rock scrambling and my legs were officially lobbying for an extended seat. But onward was the only option.

When we finally saw the truck at the trailhead, after 4 hours and 53 minutes and just over 8 miles of exploring, the exhaustion disappeared, turning now into a celebration as we took off our backpacks and opened the cooler for a celebratory drink as we simple sat and excitedly recapped our favorite moments.

There is no taste quite like an ice-cold Liquid Death after five hours in the sun. (Not sponsored).

A Proper Ending

Looking at the remaining hours of the day, we weren't quite ready to let the day go, so we squeezed in a scenic drive to the Confluence Overlook, watching the light change over the deep-cut canyons and once again, envisioning a future visit that included a hike that incorporated this trail to the river below.

Since it happened to be St. Patrick’s Day, we ended our night in Moab at Proper Brewing Co., toasted to the miles behind us, and eventually retreated to the hotel for the real prize: a slice of apple pie brought all the way from Capitol Reef.