Grand Canyon North Rim: Recalling Memories in the Midst of Destruction

My heart is heavy today with the fire updates from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The news is devastating: As of July 13, the Grand Canyon Lodge and 50 to 80 additional buildings have been destroyed, along with over 5,000 acres of wilderness.

Even though this part of the Grand Canyon has a beautiful lodge and cabins and some breathtaking hikes above the rim at 8,000 feet of elevation, only about 10% of all park visitors ever visit the North Rim, making it feel like a remote and magical location.

As I sit thinking about the devastation that is still ongoing, I'm flooded with memories that I am beyond grateful to have made. I remember camping at the North Rim Campground, the scent of the Kaibab National Forest, the crisp evening air, and watching wood peckers and ravens dance around the treetops. I recall enjoying sunset views during dinner at the lodge, the sky ablaze with a fiery orange and yellow glow that now seems tragically ironic. The lively evenings spent having drinks at the Roughrider Saloon come to mind, filled with laughter and taking in all the details of the historical building. I can still vividly recall taking the time to paint while sitting outside our western cabin, completely captivated by the light and color contrast of the trees against the cabin walls, or trying to perfectly capture the subtle shifts in shadows of the canyon  with my camera. I remember the awe of watching rain and lightning storms from the stone patio, or midday people-watching, wondering why everyone was so captivated with their phones when this incredible landscape was right in front of them. Our chance meeting with members of local tribes during the Native American Heritage Days was particularly special and provided an even deeper connection to the land and its history. I look at photos from the Grand Canyon lodge and smile when I think of the bronze burro statue with its shiny nose from the number of people who pet it, and the large Kachina doll sitting above the fire place. I see the oversized leather couches that provided the perfect retreat and views over the Canyon, and I see the signage by check in, that would share details for the day's mule rides.

And then there are the memories of the trails, the beautiful time spent with dirt underfoot and nothing but wilderness surrounding us. I remember the peaceful solitude of hiking the Transept Trail and my infatuation with a large lone aspen tree that stood at a bend in the trail. And I remember the breathtaking vistas from all the other hikes we had the opportunity to enjoy around the North Rim: Cape Royal, Bright Angel Point, and LeFevre Overlook. There’s the memory of the simple joy we experienced while having a tailgate picnic lunch at Roosevelt Point, and the wonder of peering through Angels Window. We explored Cape Final and stood in silent reverence at Point Imperial. 

Each vista, hike and memory etched itself into my mind. Details that I know I’ll keep with me forever.

These aren't just places; they're moments, experiences and landscapes that you don’t just see, you feel them. And there’s no doubt they leave their mark. 

It's almost impossible to imagine that someday, in the distant future, when we are finally able to revisit the North Rim, it will be forever altered. Yet, even as I mourn the loss of what once stood, these memories remain, vivid and forever etched in my mind. The North Rim was, and always will be, a place of profound beauty and unforgettable experiences. 

While nature has dealt a harsh hand, and my heart truly aches thinking about the wildlife that is being impacted, I am reminded that even in destruction, the history held along the vistas is not diminished, and the profound impact and comfort the North Rim has provided to those who have visited it, will forever be a part of us.